The trip down yesterday was slow but steady. I was hoping the 3 Advil I took at breakfast would reduce the pain I was dreading in my right knee. I got a kind farewell from the family. I experienced three goodbyes filled with gifts, tears, and emotional moments. The little boy in the kitchen crying as I left was something I’ll never forget. He never understood a word I said but we had a special connection. It was beginning to warm up and the sun began its daily routine of beating on my back making my pack ten pounds heavier, however my spirits were high as I climbed down each and every step. Finally halfway through the day I was nearing the end when I ran into more members of the family. Two nephews of the girl I knew and their friends, dressed like they watched the movie “The Warriors” and Japanese music videos too much. Each one with crazy Japanese hair, fingerless gloves, and T-shirts with old American rock bands on them. We greeted each other and all went to Nayapool where we had lunch at their Uncle and Aunt’s house. We ate a plate of Dhal Baat in Nepalese style, on the floor using our hands. I have found I really enjoy eating with my hands. Westernized kids have something there. So remember that parents the next time you scold your kids for eating with their hands. Cutlery is considered out-of-place here. Afterwards we headed to a small shack near the taxi stand for a quick cup of milk tea before getting on the bus. However once I was there surrounded by my new friends I began to notice them going in and out of a side room. I soon realized this place was basically a Nepalese hash den. They were going in the room to smoke or pack pot into empty cigarettes for later. After our time there we boarded the roof of the bus and made our way to Pokhara. On our journey I was being educated in the Nepalese language. Some of the more important phrases, such as “Nepalese women are beautiful.”, “Do you want to marry a Nepalese woman?”, and such. Finally I got off the bus at the nearby Tibetan village with another heartfelt goodbye and then returned to the monastery ready to pack for the following day.
One of the family
I continue to enjoy my time being part of a Nepalese family. Ever morning I’m being taught Nepali by the women of the household and later travel to Nagatanti to converse with the father of the family. It’s quite nice. Yesterday I was put to work preparing curry and attempting to make Momos, however my technique was far from perfect. Let’s just say the guests won’t be eating them. I could stay here a lot longer if I was able. I have found that the Nepalese language is not as difficult as I had imagined and if I had 2 or 3 more months here I feel that I could communicate fairly well, given my current location and surroundings. It’s quite a place, however tomorrow I return to reality and then off to Kathmandu for my next trip back to Japan.
A sudden U-turn back to cultural immersion
It’s cold. The sky is clear and the Fishtail Peak is easily seen. I returned to Bhantanti. It was quite a task getting here though. An early morning bus ride in the cold was how I began my journey back. The bus was filled to the brim and I was sitting upon the foamy head battling the elements. I was surrounded by a group of Czech kayakers heading to the mountains to challenge the roaring mountain rivers that reside there. Once we reached Nayapool me, my bum knee and my sore throat began our long journey up the valley in search of the dreaded 3,700 steps to Ulleri. I was soon accompanied by three 17 year old Nepalese boys going to Goropani for a few days. We had good conversation and tried to keep each other motivated to push forward. We finally reached the much anticipated steps. They went up sharply and disappeared into the forest above. Each step was harder than the last and the sun was no help as it beat against our backs pulling every las ounce of moisture from our skin. After several grueling hours we finally reached Ulleri, where we stopped for lunch. We had a victory feast for the feat we had just accomplished and continued on up the road. I finally reached my destination around 3:00 as I said goodbye to the boys and surprised the family with my presence. I was quickly given my old familiar cup of hot lemon tea, which I savored. The family was surprised to see me again but no less welcoming. I spent the rest of the afternoon asking language questions and watching the women work in the kitchen. Later I played cards with the kids and we ate the traditional Dhal Bhat, in Nepalese fashion. After a long arduous journey and a fabulous meal I retired for the night. I find I get the best sleep here. I haven’t found that anywhere else in Nepal.
October 20 2010
The smell of fresh burning logs fills the air as I sit in the Nepalese kitchen watching tea be made. I didn’t leave yesterday as planned but instead stayed one more day to continue enjoying the company of these wonderful people. I spent most of the day watching tourists at the restaurant owned by one of the girl’s fathers. It was interesting to see how tourists act in such a place. People bargaining for every last rupee, when in reality they have more money than any of these mountain families could dream of. It’s just a fact. It made me a bit disgusted and glad at that moment that I wasn’t a tourist in this place. Bargaining is a part of life here, but you have to be reasonable. An extra 30 cents isn’t going to break the bank for you, but it will for them. Humility was the lesson of the day.
After the day ended we ate dinner in typical Nepalese style, with our hands, and then played more cards. Today I return with a sad heart. This place has touched me like only few places can. Hopefully I will have a chance to return before I head to Japan.
October 19 2010
It’s a cold clear morning. Everyone is still sleeping away while I sit writing this. Yesterday was another eventful day. We took a small hike down to the town of Ulleri, where we saw the children’s library. It was nice and full of many types of English books. I was completely funded by donations, as most things are in this country. The government doesn’t help fund much of anything here. We both donated some money ourselves before heading back to Bhantanti. We returned to find the lunch rush in full swing. So we helped out the family as best we could. Afterwards we played cards with the father of the family for several hours. He then invited us to see his buffalo shack. We were very fortunate to see a baby buffalo and talk with him about his work and the land he owned. Later we were taught how to make butter by hand and treated to a wonderful dinner of spring rolls and vegetable noodle soup. A spring roll is like a large Hot Pocket filled with vegetables. We finished off the day with more cards and conversation. We return today, however I think I will be back soon.
October 17 2010
The morning is quiet. The sounds of the local wildlife and the crackling of the kitchen fire are all that can be heard. Yesterday was a day of doing nothing. It was the first day of Daisan, the largest holiday of the year. So on this day the elders of the family give tikka, which means they bless all the people they give tikka to with good fortune and happy life. While doing this they wither stick rice on your forehead or a red powder to symbolize tikka. I was fortunate to receive tikka twice. We returned to our companion’s father’s restaurant and relaxed there for many hours, in which I was able to converse with many family members and get to know these wonderful people. After about 3:00 we headed back to the sister’s house where we played cards and danced until late in the night. Today we are going to Ulleri.
October 16 2010
4:00am was our wake-up call. We slowly got out of bed not looking forward to the early morning hike to Poon Hill, where the views are supposed to be amazing. We climbed countless stairs watching the trail of flashlights in the dark. Almost like fireflies playing a game of follow the leader. We finally reached the top and secured a seat waiting for the sun to reveal the epic morning view we heard so much about. Although as the light began to fill the sky we were disappointed to find blankets of clouds covering the glorious peaks. After several pictures we headed back down the mountain, placing Buddhist prayer flags along the way to protect all sentient beings from suffering. We spent the rest of the morning drinking tea, playing cards, and taking naps. It was raining anyway and our next destination wasn’t far off. Finally we left down the rock staircase now wet from the rain. It was a pleasant walk through a forest that was a cross between Lord of the Rings, The Wizard of Oz, and Sleepy Hallow. We past through a quaint village where out two female companions knew everyone in the village. We carried on as the rain began to fall until we came to a large restaurant, which was owned by one of the girl’s fathers. We relaxed and drank tea as we watched a flood of travelers come and go to escape the pouring rain. After all the guests had gone we ate lunch and had good conversation around the stove. Finally we left now that the rain had slowed and continued on our way. It was getting dark as the rain began to fall again. We pulled out our flashlights, which only allowed us to see maybe 5 feet in from of us due to the rain and heavy fog. We finally reached a small village where a small guest house sat near the edge of a steep embankment with a bright light shining like a beacon. This was to be our lodging for the night. This too was owned by the family of our two companions. We were warmly welcomed and given lemon tea, our tenth of the day, and the best Dhal Baat we’ve ever tasted. A warm stove was waiting to dry our clothes and warm our hearts. The people here are extremely gracious and they go above and beyond to make you feel welcome. Sitting with my belly full, my body warm, and my mind at ease I began to drift off a bit due to the long day I had just had. So I retired for the night in a warm and cozy bed.
